We were eight members in our group and most had arrived on May 17^th to Kathmandu from various parts of India – three from Chattisgarh, two from Goa, two from Hyderabad, one Keralite who came from Dubai. Another member from Lucknow could not join as his father expired soon after he left home for this trek, hence he had to return.

Have a look at the picture of Sagarmatha National Park here, to understand our trek plan:

On May 17th, once we freshened up at our Kathmandu stay – Atithi Hotel, we went around Thamel market for our immediate needs like a mobile SIM for this new country- Nepal, water bladder for trek etc. Thamel market is loaded with trek things as well as many artifacts as it is a hub of foreign guests, as well as trekkers.

Tap.Life adventure and High5 adventures welcomed us all eight trek members in our group. High5 adventures will be handling all our trek needs, stay, food, Trek permits, guidance, now on. Sarmila Magar and Arjina Rai, our guides, and Narbin Magar the Founder of High5 adventures greet us, and brief us about our trek. Narbin comes into our rooms and checks our gear meticulously, as well as enquires about our health.

18.05.26- Day 1

The day when we actually step out into Nepal for our trek… it is a special day for me. Going out of the state Chattisgarh for a trek is a big issue, and here I am out of our country for a trek – for a middle class woman – it is a big decision. So here I am, folded hands and remembering my gods, seeking blessings for a safe time, away from home.

We were out of Atithi by 7.30 am and were clicking pictures in front of Tribhuvan International Airport soon after. Inside the airport, we saw Sarmila, our Guide, smiling face, weaving in and out with the airport officials, juggling responsibilities effortlessly. Flights are delayed, and even if you are holding boarding pass – may not get to travel on this date. Kathmandu to/fro Lukla is infamous for flights not taking off due to bad weather! Yes.. it often happens. It is here we meet this bright nine-year-old Siddhi from Maharashtra, who is travelling with her father to do EBC trek. We kept meeting her during the trek many times..

After much hemming and hawing, we got to board the flight at 11.55 am – into a small aircraft to take 20 passengers, where the Airhostess has to stoop low, cannot stand straight! The aircraft does not have the usual airconditioned interiors, but as the flight takes off, we feel slight cool air circulation, also it is shaking very much, and and amidst all this I am quickly off to sleep 😀 Koteswarji nudges me to look below, when I see the greenery of Lukla below. I am sitting just behind the pilot, and in 25 minutes we reach the famous airport Lukla. This airstrip is very tricky, with shortest runway and we could feel the aircraft coming to a halt suddenly. When I congratulated the pilot for the awesome job, he smiles and replies – Wind speed suddenly increased, no more flights today… Yahoo we got so lucky…!

As we sit down to the first Nepali thali at Lukla Tea house which is at walkable distance from the airport, there is lot of excitement in the air, finally we begin the trek!! We relish our food – Daal-bhat, a bowl of veges, pappad … and I am loving the Tea house seating with its gleaming wood work, mural art on the ceiling. Also we are served a cup of hot lemon-ginger tea… superb 🙂

The trek from Lukla to Phakding is 7 km, mostly descending. My backpack of 8.5 kg to 9 kg, carrying a bladder for water, poncho, warm clothes(thermals, fleece jacket, Down Jacket, gloves, balaclava, woolen cap), undergarments for 10 days, night wear, a pair of extra pant shirt, a pouch for necessary creams & tooth paste, and dry fruits to munch on during the trek, and a pair of slippers.. to add my backpack itself is 1.5 kg.

We reached our Phakding tea house by 5 pm, after crossing our first hanging bridge over river Dudh Koshi, and we get a room for two with attached toilet with water, and a plug point to charge mobiles. 🙂 Every Tea house has a large Dining room where most trekkers spend the evenings, also it gives Wi-fi, mobile charging facility for a fee. Tea house also has rooms for us, this is often booked by the agency.

19.05.26-Day 2

This day will remain etched in my memory for a long time. Today was going to be our test, if we are fit for the EBC trek, as we gain nearly 800 meters in height during the day, to reach Namche Bazaar, the famous gateway to Mount Everest. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay too stayed here, likewise every trekker to Khumbu region. So we are visiting a very important town!

But that morning at Phakding, I couldn’t eat much during breakfast. By 10.30 am, we reached the Sagarmatha checkpoint, where each trekker’s gets a entry ticket (registered with passport or voter-id) for Rs. 2000/-(NR).

While our guide, Sarmila, was submitting our documents, my mind was going into a downward spiral… I couldn’t think of food, was having a bad feeling about my tummy, as I had few loose motions, hence a niggling feeling that I would not be able to do the trek! I tried telling myself not to entertain any negative thoughts… and walked ahead. There I stood at the entry of Sagarmatha National Park looking at nearly 500 steps going down followed by the trail going uphill. OMG!!

I stood there with my doubts if I would be alright! A teammate looked at me and asked – What is wrong? I replied, “I am not sure if I should continue … !”

Sarmila, soon came to me and talked to me calmly, said “Abhi aap chalo, koi decision abhi nai le sakte.” I said “Aage nai jaati mae.” She confidently put my doubts to rest and asked me to walk till the lunch point. When I reached the lunch point, everyone in my team knew my state and few looked at me in sympathy. Sarmila said ” Garlic soup piyo.” The thought of food was giving me nausea. A teammate looked at me saying – its okay if you decide to quit. But Koteswarji sat in front of me and said, “Hum saath aaye hai aur saath chalenge trek pe.” Somehow those words stuck with me… Then he nudged Ranjit(Dubai fellow) to take my backpack which Ranjit was happy to. (Ranjit had given his backpack to the porter from the beginning) Sarmila asked me if I have any distress. I shared my anxiety regarding my tummy, to which she said “Aapko vapas jaana hai to aapke saath ek guide arrange karenge.. aur jo team vapas jaa rahi h uske saath aap jaayenge, par aap chinta mat karo, aap aaram se chal sakte ho… mentally strong raho” I sat down with the soup and drank it.

After lunch, I took Ranjit’s smaller day-backpack for the rest of the trek, and Ranjit carried my large one, as we had a lot of altitude to cover to reach Namche Baazaar. Ranjit’s help was a very kind gesture, I was very fortunate to have that timely support…

Slowly I started climbing, after every three-four steps, I would stand, take long breathes slowly three -four times and then again walk up.. I would rarely sit. After walking for three hours, we crossed Hillary bridge over Dudh Koshi river, a long suspension bridge, and then again steep climbs for few more hours… phew!!

By the time I reached Namche Bazaar, I was in bad shape, very tired and smell of food made me vomit on the way.. Somehow I had made it to Namche Bazaar tea house. Arjina bought me little porridge to the room, I ate and slept.

20.5.26- Day3

Our Acclimatization day – I felt hungry! I ate some more porridge and felt great walking without Backpack 😀 and the walk up to the Everest View point to an altitude of 3775 mtrs was fine. By the time, most of us reached, there was lot of clouds and we could not see any mountains from the view point …

Also included in todays itinerary … the Visitors and Learning center @ Sagarmatha Next. We got to sit and watch a fantastic documentary about the waste management system in Himalayas, and a 3-minute virtual film on Mt. Everest Expeditions, Sherpas role etc. This has a small amphitheater, and exhibition center, run by Pollution Control Committee and other like minded bodies, the project is called Sagarmatha Next. The documentary talks in detail about keeping Himalayas trash-free, efforts taken to keep it pristine. I was specifically impressed with its “Carry-me” back waste bag idea, each trekker to carry these back to Lukla. We had time to roam around… and while talking to a fellow Trekker, who was also staying in the same tea house, I told him about my ordeal, coming to Namche and my mental mode. He looked at me and said – “Don’t think of quitting.. chalo yahan ka lemon-ginger tea piyo.” I looked at my stash of Nepali rupees, found that I was short of 100 rs, and he readily helped me! (A cup of Lemon-ginger tea is 300 NR at that altitude) I asked him for his name, Eshan Ballal, he said. Mentally I made a note to return the money and found myself a chair to enjoy my hot cup of Lemon-ginger tea. Sitting there felt great… it was a fantastic time, with cool breeze, under the vast blue sky, wonderful people, soothing my torn mind.

During the trek down to Namche Bazaar, I could make video calls home to show the beautiful terrain! That was pure joy…. sharing the view. 🙂 Thanks Ncell !

On this way, I met these two small girls and her father… while talking I found out they are Malaysians settled in USA. Girls said ..Suprabhat ! That was so sweet and I tried giving a High-five to the elder girl, but she didn’t respond, to which the Father said – “I have instructed the girls not to touch any surface till they complete EBC trek and return home!!!” I saw this father-daughter combo many more times during our trek later, I could see how much effort the man was putting in this trek, taking care of the girls, creating life time memories, also giving them life skills!

That reminds me .. We also met this family from Russia.. a 20-month old, a seven year old and their parents. We all went ga-ga over the young parents, their guts to carry the small kid.. and for a long time, I wondered how did they do it.. with kids on this difficult trek?

To be continued…